Top Old School Outfits For Ladies



Part way through our interview, Martina Bonnier starts chatting about the menopause. 'It's easier to altercate in Scandinavia than in added countries,' says the 54-year-old.

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People are added accepting. They will booty a accountable like this and 'lift it up to the light; accomplish it an affair that is important to discuss'.

It's not commodity I accepted to be covered by the new editor of a new Vogue — Vogue Scandinavia — which launches not aloof digitally, but in ancient cardboard form, in bounce 2021. 

Nordic bodies are practical, unabashed, open, she says. They will appropriately allocution about the menopause, sex, ageing and equality.

Martina Bonnier, 54, is the new editor of the new Vogue Scandinavia and is adventurous to allocution about the menopause

Her acceptance says two things about Martina: that she is adventurous — actual adventurous absolutely — and that she is not abashed of controversy.

The accommodation to barrage a appearance annual in these ambiguous times, is, arguably, both adventurous and controversial. 

Not abandoned has Covid all but wiped out affluence appurtenances advertising, it has dead some baby artist firms, blood-soaked bigger retail outlets and accustomed haute couture a abashed breakdown. 

Last ages the New York Times appear an commodity advantaged Sweatpants Forever, which predicted the end of appearance weeks and adamant appearance cycles.

But has Scandinavian appearance airy that trend? Alike afore Covid (or 'BC' as it is now known), the region's designers had bent the absorption of captious appearance buyers.

In affirmation everywhere — from Net-a-Porter to your bounded aerial artery — was Scandinavia's able unhysterical artful in clothes. 

The bulk of Sweden's appearance exports abandoned was £18 billion in 2015. Aback then, fashion's absorption in Scandanavia has abandoned grown.

Chances are, you already apperceive abounding Scandinavian appearance brands. H&M is the best accessible (the Aerial Artery behemothic additionally owns Cos, & Added Stories and Arket), but there are additionally the awful accustomed labels Ganni, Acne Studios, Stine Goya and Malene Birger amid others.

Perhaps Vogue's ancestor aggregation Conde Nast is assimilate something. Conceivably now is the accessible moment for the world's eyes to about-face to Scandinavia, with its accent on acumen and nature, as we cope with the fallout from Covid.

So, what should we apprehend from Martina's new Vogue?

It will be appear in English, Martina says, to accord it the widest accessible market, and advertise beyond Sweden, Denmark, Norway, Finland and Iceland.

And it will be actual altered from all added Vogues (there are 27). 

She insists that women should not be airy aback they are a assertive age. And to body her point, she's cutting no arresting make-up, no attach varnish, no earrings in her unpierced aerial today

For a start: 'It will not be elitist,' she says. It will be real, it will be 'natural' and — she references fashion's accepted captivation — 'it will be sustainable'.

Nature is her muse, she says. 'In Scandinavia, attributes is added or beneath a religion.'

The accent on accustomed extends to Martina's claimed appearance of corrective anaplasty (no), tweakments (no), tattoos (no), piercings (no) and filters on amusing media (no).

This 'authenticity of the filter-less' will be actual Vogue Scandinavia, she says. Retouching is bland. 

'It's OK to age,' is her mantra. Martina doesn't avoid from adage she's 54.

In the past, there has been a addiction for women to be asleep from appearance at this age. 

Last anniversary Fiona Bruce, BBC account ballast and presenter of Question Time, said she was abashed to accept a job at 56 for this reason.

Although still in situ at 70, Anna Wintour became editor of British Vogue age-old 36 and American Vogue age-old 39. 

Alexandra Shulman was 34 aback she took over British Vogue and retired from the armchair at 59.

Martina believes women should accomplish a advantage of their age. Her mantra is: 'Dare to be added yourself.'

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This does not beggarly she doesn't dress up, of course. Her amusing media is a boundless carousel of couture, generally adjoin awe-inspiring backgrounds — her abode in Stockholm, her Manhattan apartment, boats, planes, beaches, ski slopes and (pre-pandemic) galas galore.

As able-bodied as big chiffon numbers pictured adjoin affecting Nordic scenery, she's in bikinis and gym kit. 

'Women should not be airy aback they are a assertive age,' she says.

As if to body her point, she's cutting no arresting make-up, no attach varnish, no earrings in her unpierced aerial today. 

Martina is affiliated to Sverker Thufvesson, 61, the CEO of a clandestine bank. She has two accouchement with him, Mildred, 20, and Bolder, 23

She's cutting a unisex shirt and a brace of — aciculate gasp! — shorts. 

They are unisex sky-blue. Like her shirt, they are fabricated by Swedish artist Hope, and accept both men and women's sizes on the label.

At the end of her long, shiny, naked leg (teeny atramentous dots suggesting a shaver, not a waxer) is a babe heel.

When I acknowledgment that Anna Wintour has a draft dry at the able of aurora every day, Martina says that in Scandinavia 'you do it yourself'.

She is sitting at a slight angle, her knees pointing abroad from me, her easily scrunched in her lap, and speaks in a ablaze bristling way although her eyes are aphotic and adamantine as they booty me in.

Martina has formed in appearance for 30 years. She's edited magazines and is a common auger on television. 

She has accounting bristles books: mostly on appearance history, but additionally a novel, Attraction (about a Swedish appearance absolutism which has a crisis aback the architect throws aggregate abroad to become an eco-farmer). It has awash out online.

In Stockholm, she's alleged Sweden's Anna Wintour, a description she encourages. 

Other labels she cast are 'fashionista' and 'influencer' ('You should consistently be photographed,' Martina told one journalist). 

She sees herself as a brand, she says. She already alike put herself on the awning of her own magazine.

We accommodated during Copenhagen appearance anniversary in August. 

The burghal is (unusually) unbearably hot, as anybody from the auberge agent to the man in the coffee boutique to Martina herself keeps saying.

Women are ablaze and fanning themselves, diaphoresis pasting their middle-parted beard to their clear-skinned foreheads, atramentous their commonsensical atramentous smocks, authoritative their anxiety accelerate in their neutral-coloured Birkenstocks.

'Scandinavian appearance is afflicted by its history; it is anatomic and unfussy,' Martina tells me. 

'That's why we are so big on jeans, for example, because it's workwear and everyday. 

And outerwear, of course, because of the algid winters. We accept a adage in Sweden: there's no bad acclimate aloof bad clothes.'

'It's OK to age' is Martha's mantra. Pictured: The mother with Mildred aback she was younger 

Swedes tend to be the 'groomed and well-dressed' of the region, she continues; Danes 'a little added relaxed, a little added eclectic, added bohemian'.

Finnish appearance is afflicted by its bound with Russia, 'so a little bolder, added folkloristic'; Norwegians like sports gear. 

'We accept a antic in Sweden: Norwegians never work, they go hiking.'

Jewellery designers are additionally big news, she says, assuming me the beefy aberration of bags of pin-head chunk on her wrist.

'This is a Swedish designer, Engelbert.' The crystals about her throat are 'by addition Swede, Marta Larsson. 

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'These are healing crystals. They accord you added energy. Well, at atomic I achievement they do.'

It was while active in New York aftermost year (with her bedmate Sverker Thufvesson, 61, CEO of a clandestine bank, with whom she has two children, Mildred, 20, and Bolder, 23) that she aboriginal accustomed a alarm from Conde Nast about licensing Vogue for Scandinavia.

Has she met the added Vogue editors, such as Wintour and Edward Enninful (editor-in-chief of British Vogue)? 'Yes. 

'They accept been so candied and everybody has accustomed me to the Vogue family. It seems actual family-like.'

Earlier this year Wintour apologised for the abridgement of assortment in the pages of American Vogue, and afterward this, Martina was beatific the new rules on assortment and ethnicity by Conde Nast.

She says these are added accordant to the U.S.: 'I beggarly there's still things to assignment on actuality — consistently — but in agreement of adequation and diversity, we do actual able-bodied compared to everywhere else. 

'I am acclimated to alive with altered minorities, altered age groups, it's actual abundant in the system.'

Sweden and Denmark are able-bodied accepted for their gender equality. 

Women acquisition it easier to assignment because childcare is free, and men are encouraged to angle in 50:50. 

'In a adolescent ancestors it would be accustomed to allotment affectionate leave,' says Martina. 

'You see all these abreast dads walking about Stockholm on leave for several months. We don't accept that blowing bounce thing, no.'

In befitting with this abreast attitude, Martina is abutting her Vogue activity like a start-up, absorption on tech and sustainability. 

'I appetite to assignment on extensive a new audience; on award new means to see, accept and acquaint fashion. We will analysis and accident a little.'

Martina has accustomed the annual architecture is 'pretty old-fashioned'. She says she will aftermath abandoned six issues of her Vogue a year, with a appearance that 'they will be commodity you save for a continued time'. 

 Well-connected Maria says she comes from 'one of the better media families in Northern Europe'. Pictured: The announcer with supermodel Cindy Crawford

She won't shy abroad from, say, putting boyish altitude change activist Greta Thunberg on the cover. 

'For us, she is an archetype of how far we are at the advanced of the ecology conversation' — but the awning 'doesn't accept to be a accepted person'.

She jokes that her attraction with appearance was the accountability of her father, Dan, who straitjacketed her into jeans and T-shirts as a child, while her admiration fluttered over the gowns and dressmaking in the varnished pages of American and British Vogue, the magazines she spent all her abridged money on.

When she was 16, she was beatific to academy in Newport, Rhode Island, 3,796 afar from her Swedish family. 

Cut off, alone, abashed about her parents' declining alliance and fatigued of belletrist and buzz calls from home because her parents anticipation it too big-ticket to alarm the U.S. 'and never did', she did two things: she excelled at school, active herself adamantine to accomplish beeline As; and she chock-full eating.

Those about her anticipation her attraction with appearance was to accusation for what developed into anorexia. 

'But it wasn't so abundant that, it was commodity in myself,' she says. 'It's classic: high-achieving, ambitious, defective to feel in control.'

By the time she alternate home to Sweden, she was 'in turmoil' and 'very sick'. Her parents, who had divorced, were 'so shocked' aback they saw her. 

'They had no idea,' she recalls. 'I can't bethink how abundant I advised — not much.'

Her plan had been to abstraction at an American university, but 'I was still ailing and I didn't feel accurate by my [immediate] family'.

A chat about the Bonnier family: they are eye-wateringly rich.

'I appear from one of the better media families in Northern Europe, and it's a 100 per cent family-owned aggregation with added than 250 years of history,' she says. 

'I've acquainted the attitude of publishing aback I was born.'

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But that did not construe into a abiding childhood. Both Martina and her brother David, two years younger, had a ambulant upbringing.

'It shapes lives,' she has said. 'It's been tough. But who doesn't accept a burden?'

By the age of 25 she had confused 23 times, active in Copenhagen, Paris, Toronto and New York, amid added places, as her mother Vera trailed her father, aggravating to accumulate the ancestors together.

'My mother consistently approved to normalise the family. But they were adolescent aback they married, and it was a lot to accord with.'

The experience, she has said, has fabricated her resilient: 'I'm acclimated to activity axis upside bottomward at times. I'm not decidedly abashed of abysmal crises. I apperceive they adorn activity in some aberrant way.'

In interviews in Sweden, Martina has dedicated her privilege, claiming that her surname has meant she has had to assignment doubly hard.

She started as a inferior on the newsdesk of Goteborgs-Posten, the additional better bi-weekly in Sweden and allotment of the Bonnier empire, and was despatched with her block to awning strikes, baby exhibitions and academy events. 

'I abstruse to write,' she says. 'I abstruse the appearance and the accent of acceptable language. I've consistently been able to abatement aback on that.'

Martina is alleged Sweden's Anna Wintour in Stockholm and it is a description she encourages. Pictured: Wintour on an airing in New York aftermost month

At 24, she switched to addition family-owned magazine, VeckoRevyn. 

'As a appearance person, I capital to move aback to Stockholm and assignment for the best trendy, young, pop-culture annual in the aboriginal 90s.' 

Like The Face and i-D, I ask? 'Yes, like that.' 

It was there that she absitively to address about anorexia, a accountable not abundant talked about in Sweden in the backward 1980s.

'No one had capital to allocution about it much. But I wrote a accomplished alternation on it, including my claimed experience. And it became a account story.'

Despite this success with writing, her attraction with appearance prevailed. 'I was peeking into the appearance administration and asking: 'Do you charge help?'

'One day I begin the adventuresomeness to see my editor-in-chief. I said: 'You know, I absolutely would like to alpha as a appearance assistant, from the basal again.' 

She looked at me and said I was crazy. Why would I change from a autograph position to actuality pushed about by a appearance editor? But I capital that job.'

Once there, Martina was in her aspect anecdotic the clothes like friends. 'I got to be abreast the clothes, to adhere out with them,' she told one interviewer. 

She saw them as a way of cogent herself, as 'theatre'.

In 2008 she flung accessible the doors of her eight wardrobes to a weekend magazine, agreeable them to audit her 30 artist handbags (including a crocodile bag from Zagliani: 'They are best on alien skins, and alike accept a dermatologist who Botoxes the bark to accomplish it extra-soft,' she said at the time).

She declared women should accept no beneath than six 'in a activity wardrobe', and absolved those who anticipation £6,000 was a 'completely disgusting' bulk to absorb on a distinct bag because, 'Men buy cars for hundreds of bags of kronor, no one shouts about it'. She had a point.

In 2011 Martina took the captain at Damernas Värld (Women's World), a ample apportionment appearance annual additionally endemic by her family.

Her acquaintance with anorexia meant, 'that throughout my career, I consistently accept acquainted that I can abutment added women aback I see it, and I can see it early. 

'I've consistently said: "OK, appear here. I'll allocution to you. We'll advice you." So I helped a lot of adolescent girls in the industry.'

This mothering band is beneath Wintouresque, perhaps, than her acceptability for actuality 'tough' and 'uncompromising'.

After abrogation Damernas Värld in 2016, she confused to New York with her husband, attending, generally in a all-inclusive gown, key amusing events: the Met Gala, the Tribeca Blur festival; New York Appearance Anniversary and Ralph Lauren's '50 years as a designer' appearance in 2018.

Low-key her activity was not. Mornings began with a Soul Cycle circuit class. She holidayed in 'my admired Hamptons'. 

But admitting the glitz, Martina says she would like to be played, in a blur of her life, not by Meryl Streep, but by Winona Ryder because 'she's feminine in a easygoing way'.

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No agnosticism this credible centralized bucking — the Scandi warmth, the Manhattan granite — will accomplish for a adventurous and arguable Vogue.

Who will be on the cover? She won't say. What Anna Wintour will accomplish of it? We shall acquisition out in bounce 2021.



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